March 30, 2004

Strollers & Cigarettes/детские коляски & сигареты

I entered the Bibirebo Metro Station last weekend at two in the afternoon with a family of three. Father and mother were travelling with a cute bundled-up toddler, whose cuteness, like many Russian toddlers, was enhanced by her bulky snow suit that made here look like a munchkin. The man and woman were well-dressed in dark-grey wool with matching grey streaks in their hair, but the man, as often is the case with Russian men of all ages, was tippling from a can of Baltica beer in his left hand.

When we got on the Metro I noticed that the woman sat down across from the man and the young child sat down next to her father. This appeared quite strange to me until I realized, when the women started signing, that that both husband and wife were deaf; they were sitting across from one another so that they could carry on a civilized conversation. When the woman had signed her piece, the husband started to respond but realized that he was handicapped by his beer. Feeling the urgent need to talk, he handed the beer to his daughter, who, with two hands, obligingly held the half-liter of lager for the duration the journey while mom and dad had a lively conversation across the wagon.

With young mothers smoking walking their babies and men drinking beer at all hours of the day and night, Russian’s health is deteriorating at a precipitous rate. While the health indicators of many former communist countries in Central Europe are improving rapidly, according to many, Russia is on the verge of a health catastrophe, much of it do to heavy smoking and drinking. This trend, among other things, causes my neighbor upstairs, presumably after heavy drinking, to throw all his vodka, beer, gin, and tonic bottles out his window, where they land and remain right outside mine.

In an article in the Moscow Times (originally published in The Washingto Post), journalist Jackson Diehl linked that health of former Communist countries to their chosen political path. While in Poland, a country that has embraced democracy, the average life expectancy has climbed 4 years, in Russia and other CIS countries, that have embraced “managed democracy” or dictatorship average life expectancy has plummeted. Interestingly, the Baltic States’ health indicators dropped right after the collapse of the U.S.S.R, but started to rise again when the started implementing democratic reforms and moving towards joining the E.U.

The snow having melted and the weather having climbed below freezing, I see many mothers strolling with a friend and pushing along their infants’ in a stroller, sometimes letting a bundled-up three or four year old run on ahead. Inevitably, these women are pushing the stroller with one hand and smoking a cigarette in another—albeit often those slim cigarettes that are quite popular with women here. These women don’t even seem to bother to blow the cigarette smoke away from their children. I wonder if they stop when they’re pregnant.


Posted by Aaron at 01:46 PM | Comments (1)

March 25, 2004

Canard Debunked/Газетная "Утка" Развенчанная

I am not sure how good my Russian translation is—these aren’t very quotidian words. I would like to rescind my comment about Russia and Vietnam and the similarity between draft evasions in favor a more complex explanation. My last comment was too flippant, and I think Belinda is right to call me out on it—especially since I don’t like stupid generalizations like the one I made. I think Ezra has the right idea, and the information he provides is very helpful. I am excited to find out more about the subject when I have time.

Since I made my comment on draft evasion, I have found out in more detail about the system operates (please also see my previous comment on bribery for details on how that works). Russia has a system whereby university students are required to take military classes that apply to their course of study. So, if you are studying to be a geologist, for example, you will have to take the relevant military classes. The same holds true for students of business, finance, and the hard sciences, though I am unsure about those in the humanities. These military classes give the university students the rank of officer and exempt them from actually serving, except for perhaps a two to four-week boot camp, which, it seems, is also possible to finagle your way out of.

Nobody gives a damn about these academic military classes, however, and the professors who teach these subjects, perhaps because no is interested, are the most likely to accept bribes. This is very convenient for the students as they cannot study any of the military subjects and just give their professor a nice bottle of vodka and a thank you not with a $100 dollar bill. If you are poor, you just have t pass the class.

Posted by Aaron at 02:06 PM | Comments (0)

March 24, 2004

Bribe Your Professor/Подкупийте Профессора

In my attempt to better understand the culture of bribery, I am going t attempt to do a series in bribery in different areas of Russian life. As my students are fond of saying: “Anything can be solved with money.” This column will attempt to enlighten, you the reader, how this actually works.

One of the most shocking instances of bribery I have found is the widespread phenomenon of professor bribing. Though this is not true of all professors, it is rampant, even in the more prestigious universities, and takes several different forms. In many universities, Upperclassmen pass down knowledge about which professors accept bribes to underclassmen; however, this information is not always necessary because usually the professor will make clear through her actions if she will accept a bribe.

The most common bribery scenario occurs when a student fails an exam, either on purpose or by accident—though it is more likely, of course, that a student will fail on purpose if she knows that she can bribe the professor. The professor will then summon the student to his office and will begin to speak in roundabout way: “So, I see here that you failed the exam…This is a problem. …What should we do about this?” When the professor begins in this roundabout way and asks open-ended questions, this signals the student that the professor is open to some kind of bribe. If the professor is known to accept bribes, the process will usually be shorter.

There are many tried and true methods of giving a bribe. Many students will put some money on the desk while the professor isn’t looking and then say something like “look there is $100 dollars professor. Where did it come from?” Other students will hand the professor an envelope, or will just straightforwardly give the bribe. As Russians note, professors are smart people, and one doesn’t need to pussyfoot around the issue. Alcohol, especially for male professors can be substituted instead of money. However, one must be quality alcohol—that means no Armenian Cognac—one must give Hennessy or another name brand. Flowers, perfume, and chocolate or a combination thereof is the tried and true method of success for women. Some professors are less forthright. They simply make their students by a copy of their publication.

Other professors are even more straightforward than the average bribe accepter. One of my student’s professors simply wrote the price of different grades on the board. Like many professors he did retain some sort of honor, which despite all the bribery maintains some, however minimal important. In the case of my student’s professor, he retained the top mark, a five, for those who actually earned it. This type of professorial behavior is demonstrated by a Russian joke in which a student hands a professor an envelope after the exam. In the envelope the note says:

Here is $500, $100 for every mark.

The next classes the professor hands the student back $300. The student, with a confused look on his face, asked, “Why?” The professor responded that they student had given him $100 dollars for every mark, and since the professor had given the student a two, the $300 was his change.

Posted by Aaron at 01:58 PM | Comments (0)

March 17, 2004

Election?/Выборы?

It was March 14. The sun was shining brightly, and the snow was melting and making a dripping sound off the roof of my pre-fabricated housing. Was there an election here in this country to elect the President? I didn't notice. Of course, I had some kind of Russian stomach virus that caused me to spend election Sunday puking my guts out.

However, there was also no run up to the election. The only campaign signs I saw in the whole were some ads on bus stops for Moscow's erstwhile mayor Yury Luzhkov. It looked like the quaint kind of had one posts for school board of Moscow, Idaho not Moscow Russia and the ad said something to the effect like "we're a great team."

There were general election adverts of course. "Do a great service to your country. Vote!" or "Vote and win free stuff." These were the two themes posted all over the city. The comparison has been made to Communism when everyone vote, but there was only one candidate. Though, this was not the actual situation, it certainly appeared that way.

In fact, the non tv coverage, which at the moment is not controlled by the state couldn't even find anything to talk about.

Posted by Aaron at 02:06 PM | Comments (0)

March 11, 2004

Freedom/Свобода

I got into a big debate in one of my classes about freedom with my students--and the contrast between personal freedom in Russia and the United States. Many of my students felt that the the were more personally free than in the United States. After all, they can go to the bar any time of they like. There are no regulations about where you can drink or smoke.

They also see the difference between now and Soviet times as night and day-- and they really appreciate it. One of my students, who lives with his girlfriend, said that he really values his freedom because under Communism it would have been impossible for him to live with a woman he wasn't married to. In Soviet times, you had to have a special stamp in your passport that said you were married. Otherwise you could forget about living together. I think it is those little things about daily life in the former USSR that we in the West never really understood.

The biggest barrier to personal freedom still remaining, many felt, was obligatory military service. My students felt this even though the endemic corruption about who has to serve is way worse than it was during the Vietnam war when mainly poor undereducated minorities were sent to the front line.
Of course, none of my Muscovite students had served more than two weeks through either having powerful parents, paying bribes, or through educational deferral, which supposedly makes you an officer.

On the other hand, my students are upwardly mobile people who enjoy there freedom. Of course a large percentage or Russians, rural and often desperately poor, don't know how to respond to this freedom or don't have the resources to use it.

Posted by Aaron at 12:59 PM | Comments (1)

March 09, 2004

Fur Hat/Меховая Шапка

I went to Ismailovsky Park, the center for cheap clothes, Soviet bric-a-brac, and arts and crafts. If anyone has any requests, let me know. I can buy you posters, Lenin flags, a bust of Stalin, old Soviet Army hats. You can just deposit the money in my bank account. Of course, like any good information-age baby, you could just buy your Russian hats online HERE.

Anyhow, back to the story. It was snowing hard, and of course the first thing I saw was the ratty looking chained-up bears that everyone was gawking at along with the people dressed up as ethnic bare-tamers. As usual when I encounter these things in Eastern Europe, I was apalled. This didn’t stop me, however, from purchasing a fur hat. I was very proud of myself as I bargained the guy down fifty-dollars, and the man told me it was fox.

However, as I was eating my lunch another hat dealer came up to me and told me my hat was shit, and that I had to buy another one from him. He went through lengths to try to prove that the hat I had bought was cat. When I didn’t respond to him, he started shouting “Meow, MEow, MEOW” at me. This made my quite nice lunch very unpleasant and made me feel less good about my purchase. So, either way, it looks like real fur and maybe I can offer some kind of competition on the blog for someone to win this treasure.

Posted by Aaron at 12:54 PM | Comments (0)

Globalization/Глобализаця

I teach a group of teenagers out on the edge of the city limits of Moscow where I live and Soviet architecture reached (reaches) its nadir. The first day at the end of class I asked my students, whose English is incredible, what their favorite bands or movies were. The one boy of my four students, dressed in baggy jeans and a Carhart hoody, replied that he was a huge follower of The White Stripes and that his favorite movie was Requiem for a Dream. He, however, announced that the dubbed Russian versions of Requiem was crap because it cut out all the best scenes (i.e. the ones where the cocaine use spirals out of control and bloated purple veins and amputated arms are shown) and so much was lost in translation. He then proceeded to take out his several-hundred dollar mobile phone and asked if he could take my picture.

Say hello to the new Russia.

Posted by Aaron at 12:50 PM | Comments (0)

March 05, 2004

The End/Конец

The short end of the story is that our hero went back to the police station, found the police who had harassed him, but did not get his passport back.

The End.

Posted by Aaron at 06:40 PM | Comments (0)

March 04, 2004

Problems Come In Threes: The Advanced Stages of Russian Capitalism

After our hero's run in with the police, he decided it would be a good idea to buy a mobile telephone. When on tour of the different branches of the school our hero works for, our hero enlisted the help of someone from the school to buy him a phone. With the hero's luck, however, he received a defective phone. This phone appeared in many modes to work normally. However, in some menus it would say

1)Save
2)Delete
3) (87\&%(sjlsdf;_

After the weekend, the hero attempted to ecxhange this defective phone for a new one, and, after a trip to the embassy to replace his passport, went to the phone store. However, as the hero was soon to find out, Russians don't understand customer service.

I arrived at the store, and was shuffled around among many people--each of whom at first didn't understand the problem and secondly, couldn't understand what to do. Finally, after much looking and hmm.... (or in russian gmmmmm..or гмммммм) they told me that I had to go to the service center.

The service center could be dubbed the anti-service center as service was very limited. First, our hero was made to wait in line like at a bread queue in order to speak with that Russian version of a "Customer Service." Many people appeared to have been there for several hours.

After some time, I was allowed in to see a "anti-Customer Service Agent." As I walked in the room, sercurity came in to forcefully expel a quite irate daperly dressed businessman. It did not bode well for our hero.

The man helping our hero went through the same routine as the routine at the store--lot's of looking and not very much action. After about twenty minutes a manager was called. Finally after much discussion in broken Russian and more broken English, they agreed not to give our hero a new phone, but to repair it. This, by Russian standards, was very kind of them, as I was the only one to enter the Customer Service room the whole time I was there that appeared to be successful in getting them to do anything.

As a bonus, I also managed to get them to give me a free loaner phone from about 1991 that weighs at least two pounds. Best of all the whole experience only took two and half hours!

Posted by Aaron at 02:37 PM | Comments (0)

March 03, 2004

Passport/Паспорт

The loss of our hero’s passport was not met with a warm reception by the school. They exhibited rather uninterested Russian airs. They wanted to not claim any responsibility for our hero’s fate, because, as I later found out, they didn’t want to pay to replace my visa, which is a costly process. However, the school did call their security specialist, who along with the school accommodation manger (why him I don’t know), to help our hero navigate the police station—or rather the security specialist navigated the police station for our hero. A security specialist, I found out, is a man who knows important people who knows important people. When we got of the metro by the police station, our security specialist, a well-dressed snake-oil type, called his friend who works in the State Senate next door. The friend in the State Senate introduced us to some police chief in order to expedite the process; or rather I should say to have a process at all. If we didn’t know anyone, I don’t think we would have been let in the front door of the police station as a group of steakheads were blocking the entrance. After much hand shaking and name-dropping we were allowed up to see the chief.

The inside of the building was the spitting image of what you imagine a Russian Police HQ to look like. Imagine a project in the Bronx that hasn’t been repaired since the day it was built and you start to get the picture. The chief had a small office painted a dirty yellowish color, and his walls were dotted with scantily clad women on calendars. The room reeked of cigarette smoke. The police chief himself was dressed casually in a pair of blue jeans and a sweater.

After explaining the situation, the police chief gave our hero two options—one of which he strongly discouraged us from doing. Hence, he gave us one option. The non-option was to make a claim against the police. The other option was to say that our hero had lost his passport, get a spavka (a ubiquitous word in Russian for a piece of official paper—in this case a piece of paper that would say our hero lost his passport and give our hero permission to walk around, though our hero is not excited to use this piece of paper the next time someone asks for his passport), and come back on Saturday to talk to police and see if they might not give my passport back. So, we chose option one.

The rest of the story is boring and involves hours filling out paperwork. Interestingly, since our hero’s claim was a total fable, a police men dressed in the nastiest suit and one of the ugliest old white dress shirt—you know the ribbed see-through kind popular in the eighties—dictated what had happened. According the my aide the accommodation manner, the guy was a dunce and kept on using the wrong gender to talk about me even though I was sitting right in front of him. The story went something like:

“Our hero was waling down the street, when the passport fell out of his pocket”

However, this story took three handwritten pages to complete. Finally after many hours, and a headache from the chain-smoking police offices, our hero retired for the day and waited until Saturday to come back to the police station…


Posted by Aaron at 06:31 PM | Comments (0)

March 02, 2004

Russia's New PM

In case you didnt know, Putin fired his PM last week and just named another one yesterday. The man, Fradkov is a real technocrat who supposedly won't mess with Putin's program. Read more here
Posted by Aaron at 02:42 PM | Comments (0)

More Police Update

There has bee a notably beefing up of the police presence in front of the election.
Posted by Aaron at 02:38 PM | Comments (0)